Listen, this is a true story, and the thing about true
stories—really true stories, the kind that get handed down from father
to son in whispered conversations after the evening prayers have been said and
the oil lamps dimmed—is that they don’t need embellishment. The terror and the
wonder are already there, baked right in like raisins in bread.
Sheikh Abdul Muhyi was nineteen years old when he asked his
parents if he could go study under Sheikh Abdul Rauf Singkel. Now, nineteen is
an age when most young men are thinking about girls and the future and maybe,
if they’re honest with themselves in the dark hours before dawn, whether they’ve
got what it takes to make something of themselves in this world. But Abdul
Muhyi? He was thinking about God. About the spaces between heartbeats where the
divine could slip in like smoke under a door.
His parents said yes. Of course they did. You don’t say no
to a son with eyes like that—eyes that looked past you, through you, into
territories you couldn’t map.
Eight years he spent up there in Aceh, and the word that
came back about him was this: devoted. Disciplined. A young man
with a backbone like an iron rod and a will that wouldn’t bend even if you put
the whole weight of the world on it. The kind of student who made other
students nervous, you know the type—the one who’s always there early, always
stays late, always asking one more question just when everyone else is packing
up to leave.
At twenty-seven—and I want you to remember that number,
twenty-seven, because it matters—his teacher invited him and a handful of other
disciples to travel to Baghdad. To Iraq. To visit the tomb of Sheikh Abdul
Qadir Jilani, may his bones rest easy in that ancient dust.
Two years they spent there, deepening their understanding.
And according to Wildan Yahya—a scholar who spent a good portion of his life
trying to piece together the fragments of this story like a man assembling a
shattered mirror in a dark room—Abdul Muhyi received his ijazah during
this time. That’s a certification, if you’re not in the know. A piece of paper
that says: This man knows what he’s talking about. Listen to him.
But the journey wasn’t over. Of course it wasn’t. These
things never are.
They went to Mecca next. The Hajj. The pilgrimage that every
faithful Muslim dreams about from the time they’re old enough to understand
what dreams are. And it was there, in the crush of thousands of pilgrims
circling the Kaaba like water circling a drain, that Abdul Muhyi’s teacher saw
something in him. Signs of walayah, they called it. Sainthood. The kind
of holiness that doesn’t come from books or lectures but from someplace deeper.
Someplace most of us never reach, never even get close to.
After the Hajj, they returned to Aceh, and his teacher—who
must have had a touch of the sight himself, the kind of prescience that lets
you see the shape of things before they happen—gave Abdul Muhyi his marching
orders: Go to southern West Java. Find a cave. Spread Islam there.
Just like that. As if finding a specific cave in a landscape
of mountains and valleys and forests thick enough to swallow a man whole was
the easiest thing in the world.
Now here’s where the story gets fuzzy, the way old stories
always do. The dates don’t line up quite right. Some folks say he was born in
1650 and died in 1730. Others claim 1640 to 1715. His birthplace? Could’ve been
Mataram, Kartasura, in Central Java. Or maybe Mataram, Lombok—different place
entirely, different island even. Miftah Arifin wrote it down one way in his
book. Other scholars wrote it down different.
But what everyone agrees on is this: Abdul Muhyi spent his
childhood and teenage years in Gresik, East Java. Learned Islam from his
parents and the scholars around Ampel Denta in Surabaya. The real stuff, not
the watered-down version. The kind of knowledge that changes how you see the
world, makes you understand that what we call reality is just the thinnest skin
stretched over something vast and incomprehensible.
When he came back from Aceh—mission received, destiny
calling—he stopped in Gresik long enough to marry a woman named Ayu Bakta. They
had four sons together: Dalem Bojong, Dalem Abdullah, Media Kusumah, and Paqih
Ibrahim. Good strong names for boys who’d grow up in the shadow of a saint.
And then, according to Khaerussalam’s research, just a few
days after the wedding—can you imagine?—he packed up his new bride and
headed for West Java. Because when God calls, or when your teacher who speaks
for God calls, you don’t wait around. You don’t make excuses. You go.
The first place he landed was Darma in Kuningan, and the
people there—simple folks, farmers mostly, people who knew the value of a man
who could read and write and explain the mysteries of faith—welcomed him with
open arms. Seven years he stayed. 1678 to 1685. Seven years of teaching, of
building, of laying foundations in human hearts the way a stonemason lays
foundations in earth.
Then Pameungpeuk in Garut. One year this time, 1685 to 1686,
and here’s where it gets interesting—where the darkness starts creeping in at
the edges like mold on bread. See, the people in Pameungpeuk hadn’t converted
yet. They still held to the old ways, the old gods, and Abdul Muhyi had to move
carefully. Like a man walking across ice that might crack at any moment.
One wrong word, one misstep, and the whole thing could’ve gone sideways fast.
Next stop: Batuwangi, also in Garut. Success this
time—converts, believers, people willing to change everything they thought they
knew about the world. But also opposition. Always opposition. Because there are
always people who don’t want to change, who see any new idea as a threat to the
careful order they’ve built their lives around.
Then Lebaksiuh in Tasikmalaya, where he stayed four years
and built a mosque. Where he trained disciples to carry on the work after he
was gone. Where he’d retreat to the valley of Gunung Kampung Cilumbu—six
kilometers from town, far enough that a man could be alone with his thoughts
and whatever else might be listening in the darkness—for spiritual reflection.
He renamed that mountain Gunung Mujarod, which tells you something about the
kind of man he was. A man who renamed mountains.
And it was during these retreats, during these long nights
of prayer and meditation and whatever else happens when a holy man goes into
the wilderness alone, that he found it.
The cave.
The one his teacher had told him about all those years ago
in Aceh. The needle in the haystack, the specific cave among thousands, the one
that had been waiting for him like a mouth in the earth.
He found it on 12 Rabi’ul Awwal 1111 AH—1690 CE if you’re
counting in the Western calendar. He was exactly forty years old. Another
number to remember.
He named it Safarwadi. “The path between the valleys” in
Arabic. Which is poetic, sure, but also accurate in a way that goes beyond
poetry. Because wasn’t that what he’d been his whole life? A path between
valleys, a bridge between the human and the divine, a translator of mysteries?
After he died—and we’ll get to that, don’t worry, we always
get to that—people started coming to visit the cave. Pilgrims from all over
Java, arriving in such numbers that the locals said they came like fish
spawning. Mijah in Sundanese. And so the place became known as
Pamijahan—“the place where fish spawn”—which is the kind of name that sticks,
the kind that tells you something true about a place even if you’ve never been
there.
He settled his family there, used the cave as a school,
taught his students in that darkness. But he didn’t stop moving. Couldn’t stop.
A man like that, with a mission like that, doesn’t just sit still and wait for
the world to come to him.
Kampung Bojong—now called Kampung Bengkok—was first. Two
kilometers west, he built another mosque, named that area Safarwadi too,
because when you find a good name you use it.
He got tight with the local regent, Wiradadaha III of
Sukapura. Political connections, the kind that give you room to operate, make
your recommendations carry weight. His fatwas became law, more or less. Other
scholars came to visit, to consult, to sit at the feet of the man who’d found
the cave.
His fame spread like ripples from a stone thrown into still
water—Cirebon, Demak, Ciamis, Bandung, Banten, all the way to
Mataram-Surakarta. The Sultan himself sent an envoy with an offer: Come educate
my children, and I’ll make Pamijahan a perdikan land, tax-exempt, a
religious endowment in perpetuity.
He never accepted. Never went. And in 1151 AH—1730 CE—he
died with that offer still on the table.
Here’s what he left behind: the Shattariyah order in West
Java. The teaching of Martabat Alam Tujuh, the Seven Levels of Reality,
which is a concept about divine manifestation so complex it makes your head
spin just thinking about it. Methods of zikir borrowed from other Sufi
orders—loud remembrance and silent remembrance, the whole spectrum of how to
call out to God or whisper to Him in the dark.
But here’s the thing, the real kicker: there are almost no
written texts directly from the man himself. The manuscripts exist, sure, but
they were written by other people, attributed to him after the fact.
Tommy Christomy pointed this out, did the research, found that the oldest
manuscripts in Pamijahan only mention his spiritual genealogy. The family tree
of the soul, if you want to put it that way.
Why no written teachings? Two reasons, probably. First,
Pamijahan was remote, isolated, the kind of place where knowledge got passed
down through stories and practice, mouth to ear, hand to hand. Second—and this
is the dark part, the part that reminds you this story doesn’t take place in
some fairy-tale kingdom—he was opposing the Dutch. The colonizers. The men with
guns and ships and the absolute certainty that they had a right to own
everything they could see.
He had to keep moving, keep one step ahead, and when you’re
running from men who want to kill you or lock you up or break you, you don’t
have a lot of time to sit down and write treatises on Sufi philosophy.
So the teachings survived the way teachings always survive
when writing is impossible: in the memories of students, in the rituals they
practiced, in the cave that still bears his name.
And isn’t that the most terrifying thing of all? Not that
evil men chase holy ones—that’s as old as evil and holiness themselves. No, the
terrifying thing is how easily knowledge can be lost. How a man can pour his
entire life into understanding the nature of God and reality and the human
soul, and then die, and have almost nothing written down to show for it.
Just stories.
Just this.
The cave is still there, if you want to visit. Pamijahan,
Bantarkalong District, Tasikmalaya Regency, West Java. People still come, still
make the pilgrimage, still arrive like spawning fish.
Whether they find what they’re looking for in that
darkness—well, that’s between them and whatever’s listening.
That’s the story of Sheikh Abdul Muhyi. The saint of the
cave. The man who renamed mountains and found his destiny in the earth and died
without writing any of it down.
Sleep well.

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